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Weird Wood

Bruce Moreland

New participant
South Miami, FL
Bee Happy Graphics LLC
First, hello! My wife is a nature & wildlife photographer and I, as technical support, get to do everything she doesn't want to. We print and frame her work. I'm still learning as we go. For the most part we gravitate to really simple frame designs and materials, as you can see by following some of the links on our services page (http://www.BeeHappyGraphics.com/services.html).

Not that long ago, her friend asked us to use some of her parent's old fence material to frame a picture of her father (more details can be found at http://www.beehappygraphics.com/blog/2018/working-with-weird-wood-preface/). I did some research here and elsewhere on the Internet, but didn't find anything helpful, so I figured it out as best I could. As the article says, I decided to write about it; in fact, I promised a whole series of articles. I just finished the first (meaning 'easiest') one (http://www.beehappygraphics.com/blog/2019/using-multiple-moulding-widths-in-one-frame/). It's not too late to tell me how I could have done better - I can either revise the article or add comments below it (you would get full credit, of course).

The way things are going, this series could be a long time coming (I've managed to make other promises along the way). On the positive side, while cleaning up the garage/work area, I may have found the wood I need for the next two installments. If I haven't made it clear, comments from all of you who know what you are doing would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

Wally Fay CPF

Certified Picture Framer®
Jacksonville Beach, FL 32250
Sunshine Frames
For the first project I would figure out how to make a jig to work with my mitering saw(s) that would allow me to index the cut of the cheek of the rabbet since the outside edge of the material is irregular.

For the second, well, honestly I wouldn't do that, but for arguments sake I'll throw in my $.02. Old school. Cut the four lengths just over their final length and make a cardboard template of the finished product. Using a sliding t-bevel, transfer the cut angles for the miters to your saw from the template (I would use my table saw with a protractor style sliding jig*) and cut them by eye. For joining, I would use biscuits and a band clamp.

*I have an Incra jig accurate to 1/10 of a degree, but the t-bevel is faster than the math.

Gregory K. Norris CPF

RIP Past PPFA President 2016-2018
Certified Picture Framer®
Huntington, West Virginia
Huntington Hall of Frames
Huh. I think Wally is right. I don't have much personal experience in this area, but did use the template method to create a frame from some irregular chestnut that came from a barn beam. It worked well for me.

I get requests to make frames from lumber left over from a barn or family farm with some regularity.

I liked that design with two mitres in opposite corners on your preface page. We have a substantial market for "primitives" here, so this might be a popular design.

This is the first really new thing I have seen this year. I will follow what you are doing if you don't mind to post here when you have new entries. Thanks.
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