Sealing the Back of a Frame

[Gregory K. Norris CPF]

I have been following a discussion on the LinkedIn Conservation Picture Framing Group discussing how to seal the back of a frame in a conservation studio or high end gallery. I have been amazed at some of the comments.

It seems that some of these businesses are using gaffers tape to seal the frame, and they know almost nothing about how to properly adhere a dust cover. They seem unfamiliar with products like Tyvek membrane and acid free papers. And some of them think they are too much trouble because they might need to remove the art from the frame.

I realize that for our purposes we are supplying an end product to the consumer, but it seems to me that if you are storing framed art for more than a few days it should be fully protected.

If you have properly sealed the back with an appropriate tape, then glued the dust cover, it should be simple to remove it with no significant residue, and simply apply a new dustcover when finished. If you have used a polyester or even a polypropolene tape, then you could simply replace that if residue was a problem. (Though not my first choice, you could even use ATG in this scenario).

Am I missing something here? Or are we worlds ahead in the preservation of art?

Here is the link if you want to have a look:

https://www.linkedin.com/groupItem?...jHrLTMA&fromEmail=fromEmail&ut=2Mhx-IiYbKfSA1

 

[Jim Miller MCPF GCF]

Am I missing something here? Or are we worlds ahead in the preservation of art?

I don't think you're missing anything, and yes, it seems that we are worlds ahead of some framers. in terms of preservation concepts.

Two striking facts have caught my notice in that discussion:
1. The routine user of gaffer's tape is a highly reputable conservation lab, apparently.
2. A former manufacturer of matboard thinks only unbuffered cotton matboards should be used for preservation framing.

Go figure.:noidea:

 

[Wally Fay CPF]

As much as I am loathe to do so, I will join that group just to see the conversation. I have little trust in Linkedin and have never subscribed to more than basic feeds, and have certainly never shared any of my contacts with them as they are frequent to request.

 

[Robin Gentry MCPF]

very interesting discussion. Thanks for sharing.

 

[Wally Fay CPF]

OK, I joined and read the whole thread. I do find it interesting how much information is dated but I am certainly not surprised. The sharing of information between conservation experts doesn't have that long of a track record and many still hold on to what they know rather than find out about what they don't. I don't think that is unique to the profession.
Most everyone on that thread could benefit from the PPFA and the continuing education available through membership, use of this forum, and attending the National Conference. There are some who are worth listening to as well.

Thanks for pointing it out Greg.

 

[Rob Markoff]

Since the door has been opened-


I still do not understand the "use" of a Tyvek membrane to "seal" the back of a frame.

Tyvek is a permeable membrane that allows vapor to penetrate in both directions. While it sheds water and is difficult to tear, please explain to me why one would consider it for use as a backing material, especially if the objective is to "seal" a frame - or worse yet, if the expectation is to prevent the penetration of moisture from a framing package.

From what I have read, it is best used when wrapping art for storage but plays no role in a conservation backing.

 

[Randy Parrish CPF]

Since the door has been opened-


I still do not understand the "use" of a Tyvek membrane to "seal" the back of a frame.

Tyvek is a permeable membrane that allows vapor to penetrate in both directions. While it sheds water and is difficult to tear, please explain to me why one would consider it for use as a backing material, especially if the objective is to "seal" a frame - or worse yet, if the expectation is to prevent the penetration of moisture from a framing package.

From what I have read, it is best used when wrapping art for storage but plays no role in a conservation backing.

I like it just for the puncture resistances and have a roll of it to use on deep frames that I don't want to fill with sheets of backing boards.

 

[Gregory K. Norris CPF]

Rob, I only suggested it as a backing after being sealed with polyester tape to Coroplast, and as an alternative to gaffers tape to seal against insect infestation since that seemed to be the OP's main concern. Gaffers tape, a cloth tape, is probably moisture permeable, too.

I agree with you about Tyvek and wouldn't normally use it in my part of the world where most of the housing stock has masonry walls holding quite a bit of moisture. (I've seen water actually build up in the bottom of the frame from being wicked from the plaster and mold eat through from the back in another instance).

I still think Jim Miller's method is the better method for their purposes and think the whole thing about it being too much trouble to have to remove a dustcover to get into the frame is hogwash. In theory, if they are "high end," the cost of materials and labor to replace a dustcover should be negligible. I found it interesting that the conservators seemed to reject the suggestions from framers. If this discussion is representative, we seem worlds ahead of them in our knowledge of materials and techniques.

 

[Rob Markoff]

I agree with you about Tyvek and wouldn't normally use it in my part of the world where most of the housing stock has masonry walls holding quite a bit of moisture. (I've seen water actually build up in the bottom of the frame from being wicked from the plaster and mold eat through from the back in another instance).

Wouldn't Marvelseal be a better option since it is impermeable?

 

[Gregory K. Norris CPF]

Marvelseal would be a much better choice, and I would have thought conservators would have been using it. But if they think kraft paper is too expensive and too much trouble, they sure aren't going to use Marvelseal. I still find it amazing that they have to even discuss whether or not gaffers tape is ok!

 

[Jim Miller MCPF GCF]

I still do not understand the "use" of a Tyvek membrane to "seal" the back of a frame...please explain to me why one would consider it for use as a backing material, especially if the objective is to "seal" a frame...

The perceived definitions of "seal" are pertinent here. When most framers talk about "sealing" a frame back, they're really talking about what I consider to be "closing" it. That is, the purpose is to stop dust and insects and to slow the rate of change of temperature and humidity inside the frame. Filling the frame and applying a sturdy dustcover routinely serves that purpose. Tyvek would be appropriate and more durable than any sort of paper dustcover. I have used it on occasion, but the Lineco alpha cellulose paper over a fully-filled frame is cost-effective and usually adequate for consumer framing for display in a clean, climate-controlled environment.

However, when the purpose is to completely stop all transfer of moisture and air, totally sealing the frame package requires more than covering the back. Hugh Phibbs' Marvelseal package comes to mind, which can actually be submersible, but that is a fairly costly material. At a recent meeting in Michigan, Hugh described a similar-but-more-practical method of sealing frames using ordinary Heavy Duty Reynolds Wrap, which is available off the shelf from any grocery store, and ATG. Believe it or not, Hugh's tests showed that air and moisture penetrate a ribbon of tape more easily than they penetrate a layer of 100% adhesive. The key seems to be using the thinnest-possible membrane of adhesive between the glass and the foil.

A frame sealed by any method could not be guaranteed to remain totally sealed forever, since accidental punctures, normal deterioration, and expansion/contraction cycles of dissimilar materials could weaken the sealed package over time. But even if the frame would no longer be submersible or totally "sealed", it would remain very tightly "closed" for a very long time.

 

[Paul Storch]

Marvelseal would be a much better choice, and I would have thought conservators would have been using it. But if they think kraft paper is too expensive and too much trouble, they sure aren't going to use Marvelseal. I still find it amazing that they have to even discuss whether or not gaffers tape is ok!

There are 'conservators', and there are conservators. I just joined this group, so I'll check out some of their discussions and be better equipped to comment if anything from there comes up again. My first impression is that the group was started by non-conservators who have appropriated the term 'conservation'. I've been dealing with the same thing in the archaeology and palaeontology fields for the past 30+ years. Just a few years ago, palaeo preparators finally 'discovered' the wonderful properties of Paraloid (Acryloid) B-72 as an adhesive and coating for fossil preservation, so there's hope.

 

[Andrew Lenz Jr.]

Gaffer's Tape has a rubber-based adhesive, nonetheless, the adhesive holds up surprisingly well—for decades. Gaffer's Tape is also vinyl covered, so I'd imagine that it would be impermeable to moisture and air. Does it outgas? I can't say.

As for sealing frames, I'm assuming that we're talking about frames that have had their rabbets sealed, correct? (Otherwise, it's typically a pointless exercise as far as gasses go.)

Tyvek, as Rob says, is permeable by air and water vapor, but not liquid water.

Andrew

p.s. I had Paraloid once, but my doctor prescribed something for it and it went away . . .

 

[David Hewitt MCPF]

Jim Miller wrote,

At a recent meeting in Michigan, Hugh described a similar-but-more-practical method of sealing frames using ordinary Heavy Duty Reynolds Wrap, which is available off the shelf from any grocery store, and ATG.

I would like to add that he also mentioned coating the Reynolds Wrap outer side with (If I'm not mistaken,& correct me if I'm wrong please) Acrylic Gel, this aided in tear resistance. His program that I saw was at Framefest southeast last September. This procedure was used in sealing the glass to backing package.

 

[Joe Weinbeck]

Since the door has been opened-


I still do not understand the "use" of a Tyvek membrane to "seal" the back of a frame.

Tyvek is a permeable membrane that allows vapor to penetrate in both directions. While it sheds water and is difficult to tear, please explain to me why one would consider it for use as a backing material, especially if the objective is to "seal" a frame - or worse yet, if the expectation is to prevent the penetration of moisture from a framing package.

From what I have read, it is best used when wrapping art for storage but plays no role in a conservation backing.

I use Tyvek for backing on many of my framing projects. It is a really nice product for some backing applications because it is stronger than paper and won't puncture as easily. The biggest advantage is that it resist the critters (bugs, spiders, centipedes, and other undesirables) that paper backing attracts, I do a lot of framing for lake cabins and farm homes where bugs are an issue. Another thing is that Tyvek will not hold water where paper sucks up the water like a sponge and holds it until dried either naturally or by hand. And still another big plus of Tyvek is that it doesn't deteriorate like paper does. Overall it is just a superior product to paper in certain applications and therefore a selling point to some buyers.

With that said, I definitely wouldn't use Tyvek by itself as backing material to "seal" a frame or to prevent moisture from penetrating the framing package. I may still use Tyvek as a backing but I would seal the art package first.

 

[Rob Markoff]

Thanks, Joe-

Had not considered the deterioration aspect and have definitely seen evidence of insects eating Kraft paper. What are you using to hold the Tyvek to the frame?

 

[Joe Weinbeck]

Rob, I generally use 3M 924 ATG tape. I have used glue and a more aggressive ATG tape a few times but I have found that 924 is usually more than enough. Joe

 

[Rick Granick]

I've seen Gaffer's Tape offered for sale lately by Omega, and wondered what people were using it for.
:z-nomasking: Rick

p.s. I had Paraloid once, but my doctor prescribed something for it and it went away . . .

"Just because you're Paraloid, doesn't mean they aren't out to get you."

 

[Gregory K. Norris CPF]

When I worked in TV, we had a GM who started every instructional conversation with "You know..." that gaffers tape is used mainly in the entertainment business to hold down cables and junk like that? Over time, because it was always around, it came to be used for all kinds of temporary holding jobs even repairing hems for on-air talent. (In the theatre world, the gaffer is the lighting technician).

A couple of times a year, some unlucky production assistant was handed a putty knife to scrape all the residue from this "clean removing petroleum-based adhesive" tape off the studio floor so that it could be buffed in advance of some VIP visitor. It was a nasty and all day job. This is all I can think about when I hear about gaffer's tape being used in the same sentence with art.

It is only slightly better than duct tape which uses a rubber based adhesive. Unfortunately, I have found both in framing packages multiple times.

 

[Jim Miller MCPF GCF]

This just in...

This week Hugh Phibbs mentioned that the plasticized polyester material used to make Mylar balloons is available in length from Home Depot! If we can all find this handy material at our local HD outlets at reasonable cost, I guess it would be among the best choices for a sturdy, durable dustcover. It would also be excellent for total-seal wrapping of a framing package, using ATG to bond it to the glass edges.